At A Glance
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Gozo is Malta’s slower, greener, more rural sister island — the Cittadella in Victoria, Ramla Bay’s red-sand beach, the Ggantija temples, and Ta’ Cenc cliffs all worth at least 2 nights of any Malta week.
- Cirkewwa-Mgarr ferry runs every 45 min, takes 25 min, €4.65 return.
- Ggantija temples (3600 BCE) are older than the Egyptian pyramids.
- Ramla Bay (Ir-Ramla l-Hamra) is Malta’s only proper red-sand beach.
- Ta’ Cenc cliffs above Sannat give Gozo’s best sunset walk.
- Aster House sits 5 minutes from the Sliema ferry, with the Cirkewwa terminal 45 minutes by bus.
Gozo is the island most Malta first-timers underestimate and most repeat visitors stay on. It is greener than Malta, slower, more rural, with sandy beaches you cannot find on the main island and a hilltop citadel in Victoria that is one of the best surviving fortified towns in the Mediterranean.
Most of my guests do Gozo as a day trip from Aster House. My advice: do at least one overnight. The light at Ta’ Cenc at sunset, the Cittadella by lamplight, and the empty country roads at dawn are the things people remember most about their Malta week.
Staying in Malta?
Aster House sleeps up to 9, with a rooftop chillout, a 1930s outdoor tub, and a media room with a 2-metre projector screen. 150 metres from the seafront, 5 minutes from the Valletta ferry.
The major sights of Gozo
1. The Cittadella in Victoria
Gozo’s hilltop fortified citadel above Victoria (Rabat). Free to walk the bastions; the Cathedral, museum, and silos charge separate small entries. The 360-degree views from the bastions are the best on the island.
2. The Ggantija temples
Megalithic temple complex at Xaghra dating from 3600-3200 BCE — older than the Egyptian pyramids and Stonehenge. UNESCO World Heritage. Combined ticket with the Ta’ Kola windmill nearby.
3. Ramla Bay (Ir-Ramla l-Hamra)
Gozo’s biggest sandy beach — properly red-orange sand, clear water, hill walks above. Calypso’s Cave (where Calypso held Odysseus, allegedly) is in the cliffs above the bay. Reached by a winding road through Xaghra.
4. The Inland Sea and Wied il-Mielah
After the Azure Window collapsed in 2017, the Inland Sea at Dwejra remains the headline natural feature of west Gozo. Boat trips run through the rock tunnel into the open sea. Wied il-Mielah is the surviving natural arch in the north-west — less famous but spectacular.
5. Xlendi
The fishing village in a steep-sided bay on the south-west coast. Restaurants line the harbour, the swim spots off the rocks are some of the best on Gozo, and the cliff walk south toward Sannat is one of the best on the island.
Walking and beaches on Gozo
6. Ta’ Cenc cliffs
The 100-metre limestone cliffs above Sannat. Best at sunset. The walk from Sannat to Mgarr ix-Xini through the cliff-top scrub is the best long walk on Gozo.
7. San Blas Bay
Smaller, redder, and emptier than Ramla. Steep walk down from the road; bring water and shade.
8. Mgarr ix-Xini
Tiny inlet, swimmable, with a single restaurant at the beach famous for octopus. Walking distance from Xewkija.
9. The salt pans at Marsalforn
Centuries-old salt pans cut into the rock along the north coast at Marsalforn. Salt is still harvested. Long flat coastal walk in the cooler months.
Eating on Gozo
10. Ta’ Frenc
Long-running fine-dining restaurant in a converted farmhouse outside Marsalforn. Booking essential. Mains €25-45.
11. Country restaurants in Sannat and Nadur
Smaller family-run restaurants serving fenkata (rabbit), ftira, and the classic Maltese cheeselets. Diar il-Bniet is among the most authentic.
12. Mgarr ix-Xini octopus
The tiny restaurant on the beach at Mgarr ix-Xini is famous for grilled octopus. Walk-up only.
Practical Gozo
13. Getting there
The Cirkewwa-Mgarr ferry runs every 45 minutes (more frequently in summer), takes 25 minutes, and costs €4.65 return. You only pay on the way back. Take the X1 bus from Sliema or the airport — about 45 minutes to Cirkewwa — or drive.
14. Renting a car
Recommended for Gozo — bus service is far thinner than Malta. Hire on Mgarr ferry side from one of the kiosks. €30-45/day for a small car.
15. Where to stay
If you are doing 2+ nights, consider a country agritourism. For day trips, base yourself in Sliema and ferry across.
A Note From Susan
“Gozo is the side of Malta that surprises most of my guests. They go for the day, fall in love with Ta’ Cenc at sunset, and then ask me on the way back whether they could come back for a long weekend. The honest answer is yes, and most do.”
— Susan, Espais Roca founder
More to Explore
- Things to Do in Valletta: A Local’s Complete Guide
- Where to Stay in Malta: Best Areas Guide
- Best Time to Visit Malta: Month-by-Month
- Things to Do in Sliema: A Local’s Guide
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Gozo worth visiting?
Yes — Gozo is the country’s slower, greener, more rural side, with sandy beaches you cannot find on the main island and the Cittadella in Victoria. At least one day, ideally an overnight on any week-long Malta trip.
How do I get to Gozo from Sliema?
Take the X1 bus or drive to Cirkewwa (45 minutes from Sliema), then the Cirkewwa-Mgarr ferry (every 45 minutes, 25-minute crossing, €4.65 return). You pay only on the way back.
How long do you need in Gozo?
1 day for the highlights, 2-3 nights to do it justice. Repeat Malta visitors often build in a 3-4 night Gozo stay on the back of a Sliema week.
Are there sandy beaches on Gozo?
Yes — Ramla Bay (red sand) and San Blas Bay are Gozo’s main sandy beaches. Both are properly sandy, unlike most of Malta’s rocky coastline.
What is the best month for Gozo?
May, June, September, and October are the best months. Hiking is at its best from October to April; swimming from June to October.
Do you need a car on Gozo?
Strongly recommended. Buses are infrequent. Hire a small car for €30-45/day from one of the kiosks at Mgarr ferry terminal.
Stay at Aster House
Day trip Gozo. Sleep in Sliema.
Aster House sleeps up to 9 across three ensuite super-king bedrooms, with a rooftop chillout, projector media room, 1930s outdoor tub, and gas BBQ on the terrace. 150 metres from the Sliema seafront.
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